Ethical brand building: where sustainable fashion meets cultural intelligence
- 5 days ago
- 8 min read
Welcome to Insight Connect, an initiative where we invite a range of local and international experts or entrepreneurs to share their views, insights, and experience around cultural intelligence.
Today, I am delighted to welcome Camélia Barbachi. She's the CEO and Founder of Chez Nous, a sustainable, ethical Franco-Tunisian fashion brand that celebrates multiculturalism, heritage, sustainability and diverse identities.
Together, we'll be exploring Camélia's experience building a brand where sustainable fashion meets cultural intelligence.
int!: Welcome, Camélia. It's a pleasure to have you with us here today.
CB: Hi, Mélanie. Thank you so much for having me.
int!: So maybe to kick us off, I wanted to talk about how you often describe yourself, which is a binational person, and you always speak about in between identities, I think. How has growing up both in France and Tunisia shaped the way you design and lead at Chez Nous?
CB: I was actually born in France and I grew up in France as well, but both my parents come from Tunisia. So I would visit Tunisia each summer. And I think in design this translate into kind of a dialogue between structure and fluidity. I think from my French side, I inherited a certain attention to the cut, to the proportions. Also the idea that the cloth should hold like a form or a function. And from Tunisia it's more about the openness. Also the sense of movement and different layers that adapt also to different bodies, and basically silhouettes that feel more hospitable rather than restrictive.
int!: That sounds like a really good combination and that complement each other really nicely. It's lovely. What success stories in fashion or industries have inspired you to start your own business? Both in fashion, but also looking at strong, ethical, sustainable and inclusive practices in general.
CB: I draw inspiration from brands that. Also combined creativity, impact and respect for culture in terms of fashion. Wales Bonner, Grace Wales Bonner, who was recently appointed Creative Director at Hermes really impressed me by the way. She incorporates her Caribbean heritage into luxury clothing. I also really like the American brand called BODE because each of them really celebrate identity and storytelling through the clothes. And they really have also an authentic approach that's really inspirational for me in terms of sustainability. I really like Stella McCartney because the brand shows that you can have sustainability at the core of your business. And finally, I want to say Alaïa, of course, a Tunisian, whose works remain timeless and deeply human.
int!: Amazing. That's a lot of people and a lot of businesses, which is great to hear there are some. So earlier on, you were talking about this mix between France and Tunisia, and I guess the aspect of nuance that is really, really important. How do you translate Tunisian or North African references into your garments that are fairly contemporary? What are the mental checks that you use so that you avoid clichés or appropriations and instead practice something that is a lot more respectful towards these cultures?
CB: That's a really good question, and I'm constantly checking myself against expectations. I initially studied business, but then I took an extra fashion course when I decided to launch my brand. And I remember at the end of the year the jury told me it's not what they expected a Tunisian-inspired brand to look like because it wasn't so colorful, or it was basically not the idea that they had of what Tunisia looks like or Tunisian garments looks like. And I answered them that it was my personal experience of being Tunisian. So, I think my practice is really shaped by how I experience my identity and my multicultural identity. Moving between cultures, cities, context, and my references are never singular or static. I try to translate my roots through the lens of my contemporary lifestyle, which is, of course inspired by multiple environments. So yeah, I like to design from within this dialogue, allowing my Tunisian references to exist alongside my Parisian lifestyle.
int!: It is interesting that you say it is not static because I think much like fashion, culture, to your point, is not static. There is slow culture and fast culture, much like there is slow fashion and fast fashion. And, so in the work that you do, and I know Chez Nous was really inspired by making minorities or invisible communities more visible, particularly in the world of fashion.
Specifically, how do you measure that Chez Nous is actually changing and shifting, how those identities are seen.
CB: Really good question. Well, at Chez Nous, inclusion starts with everything that we show, from the design itself being modular and adaptable to different bodies. The wardrobe is genderless and regions from double XS to triple XL. Down to the imagery around the brand to the people we work with. So, we try to really make sure our campaigns, lookbook, visuals reflect the diversity, embodies genders, identities, not just as a statement, but as a natural part of who we are. And beyond that, I think the measure of success and inclusivity success, if we can call it that, comes from basically the feedback that we get. So, for example, when I do pop-ups, people generally come to me and tell me "thank you for making garments that fit and look good on my body". And, yeah, it's just really great and rewarding too. To help people feel seen, represented, and at ease wearing our clothes. So I think the measure comes from that - hearing directly how the brand resonates with them. And it kind of tells us that we are shifting how these identities are experiencing fashion.
int!: Customer feedback is definitely one of the best metrics really for measurement. It is great that you get this feedback. Do you know what they like most? You were saying when you presented your project originally, people were surprised and they felt that maybe there wasn't such a Tunisian feel to it or they were expecting something else. Conversely, what do customers say? What excites them the most about it?
CB: I think what excites them the most is the combination of this creative side that’s really inspired by my North African roots, but also the quality that comes with the garments and the sustainable and inclusive aspect of it, so yes, just like finding clothes that fit, look good, are durable in all senses, and have something specific and unique then that makes them feel included and part of a community no matter where they come from.
int!: You're definitely doing the job you set for yourself, which is amazing. So, I read that you work with certified workshops, and you also lead integration programmes both in France and Tunisia. So a double question I guess. Could you tell us more about those, because I think they're really interesting. And also the second one is more of a big picture question in terms of what do you think truly sustainable fashion brands owe to the people and the supply chain that they work with beyond the quality of the fabrics and the quality of the garments in general.
CB: Absolutely. So, we do work with Tunisian facilities. So, about 85% of the production happens in Tunisia in certified workshops. So, goats, S800, ISO 9001. Those certifications guarantee that people are well paid, working in dignified conditions. And yeah, basically that they respect a certain standard in terms of sustainability, that the people they work with are not in contact with harmful components for them, but also for the end customers. And the supplies we work with are the same as leading, luxury brands. So, it also guarantees a certain standard of quality.
As for the integration workshops, we work in France with two workshops, one in the north of France, one in the Rhône Alpes region. And basically those ateliers hire people coming from underrepresented backgrounds, either people with disabilities or migrants or isolated women, and they are able to join this training programme that lasts about a year and a half. That basically helps them get back to the work field, and so that like eventually when the program ends, they can just integrate the social and professional world again. As for your question about the materials, I think when we talk about sustainability, we mostly think of the materials, indeed. It's really easy to focus on fabrics, but a garment is not only made of fabric, each step has a real impact from the sourcing of raw materials, the dyeing, the finishing, cutting, the sewing. You have to check quality. There's the packaging, there's the transportation. So there are so many steps that need to be taken into consideration and that involve real people as well. So there's also social responsibility that goes hand in hand with sustainability. I think that's something really important, and I think a responsible brand should consider all of those aspects. Not only the fabrics, but also the conditions the people work in, how much they're being paid, and basically all the opportunities there, across this entire chain.
int!: Yeah, it's a big job that, to be able to trace everything back. But it is great to hear that some brands do do that and that there are also some programmes to support the communities where you produce and so on, so forth. So, that's really good. Looking at the future specifically, say 5 to 10 years from now, what does success look like for you, in terms of impact both on the planet and people, and people will plural identities specifically? How do you see that in the world of fashion evolve if things go according to plan for you and hopefully for other brands doing the same thing as you?
CB: Well in 5 to 10 years, success for me is seeing Chez Nous as a brand that proves that you can build a profitable, scalable business while staying true to your values. In terms of environmental impact, that would mean fully circular regenerative practices that would set a new standard for sustainability. And in terms of social and cultural dynamics, it's about creating a platform where identities are celebrated. And yeah, basically building a fashion space where people feel legitimate and at home.
int!: Amazing. Well, I wish you all the best success because I think this is a brilliant, brilliant project and a brilliant brand, and we often, as I said, interview experts, and people working in the space of cultural intelligence. But I think it's also really important to give a voice to entrepreneurs like yourself who have this at heart and are doing it the right way to begin with because it's very important to have the foundations right, and I think too many companies now have reached a point where they're so big, it's extremely difficult to go back on some of the things they've established or will take a long time to transition. So well done and I wish you a lot of success. It's been really, really interesting. And there will be the details of the website for people who want to go and have a look at what you're doing. Is it available in English as well as in French?
CB: Of course.
int!: Amazing. It's plural lingual as well. Camélia, thank you so much for your time today and for those watching, this was Insight Connect. Watch this space for more cultural first conversations. Thank you.
CB: Thank you so much, Melanie.